Pinhole Photography
Pinhole Photography - History, Images, Cameras, Formulas
Introduction
Pinhole photography is lensless photography. A tiny hole replaces the lens. Light passes through
the hole; an image is formed in the camera.
Pinhole cameras are small or large, improvised or designed with great care. Cameras have been
made of sea shells, many have been made of oatmeal boxes, coke cans or cookie boxes, at least
one has been made of a discarded refrigerator. Cameras have been cast in plaster like a face
mask, constructed from beautiful hardwoods, built of metal with bellows and a range of multiple
pinholes. Station wagons have been used as pinhole cameras - and rooms in large buildings.
Basically a pinhole camera is a box, with a tiny hole in one end and film or photographic paper
in the other.
Pinhole cameras are used for fun, for art and for science.
Designing and building the cameras are great fun. Making images with cameras you have made
yourself is a great pleasure, too. But in serious photography the pinhole camera is just an
imaging device with its advantages and limitations, special characteristics and potentials. By
making the best of the camera's potential great images can be produced. Some of the images
could not have been produced with a lens.
Characteristics
Pinhole images are softer - less sharp - than pictures made with a lens. The images have nearly
infinite depth of field. Wide angle images remain absolutely rectilinear. On the other hand,
pinhole images suffer from greater chromatic aberration than pictures made with a simple lens,
and they tolerate little enlargement.
Exposures are long, ranging from half a second to several hours. Images are exposed on film or
paper - negative or positive; black and white, or color.
Pinhole optics, by the way, are not only used in photography. There is one animal in nature
which uses a pinhole for seeing - the mollusk Nautilus. Each eye has an accommodating aperture
- the aperture can enlarge or shrink. In this drawing, originally taken from a book published by
Arthur Willey in 1900, the eye is the oval opening to the upper right.
History
Early Observations and Experiments
The basic optical principles of the pinhole are commented on in Chinese texts from the fifth
century BC. Chinese writers had discovered by experiments that light travels in straight lines.
The philosopher Mo Ti was the first - to our knowledge - to record the formation of an inverted
image with a pinhole or screen. Mo Ti was aware that objects reflect light in all directions, and
that rays from the top of an object, when passing through a hole, will produce the lower part of
an image (Hammond 1981:1). According to Hammond, there is no further reference to the
camera obscura in Chinese texts until the ninth century AD, when Tuan Chheng Shih refers to an
image in a pagoda. Shen Kua later corrected his explanation of the image. Yu Chao-Lung in the
tenth century used model pagodas to make pinhole images on a screen. However, no geometric
theory on image formation resulted from these experiments and observations (Hammond
1981:2).
In the western hemisphere Aristotle (fourth century BC) comments on pinhole image formation
in his work Problems. In Book XV, 6, he asks: "Why is it that when the sun passes through
quadri-laterals, as for instance in wickerwork, it does not produce a figure rectangular in shape
but circular? [...]" In Book XV, 11, he asks further: "Why is it that an eclipse of the sun, if one
looks at it through a sieve or through leaves, such as a plane-tree or other broadleaved tree, or if
one joins the fingers of one hand over the fingers of the other, the rays are crescent-shaped
where they reach the earth? Is it for the same reason as that when light shines through a
rectangular peep-hole, it appears circular in the form of a cone? [...]" (Aristotle 1936:333,341).
Aristotle found no satisfactory explanation to his observation; the problem remained unresolved
until the 16th century (Hammond 1981:5).
The Arabian physicist and mathematician Ibn Al-Haitam, also known as Alhazen, experimented
with image formation in the tenth century AD. He arranged three candles in a row and put a
screen with a small hole between the candles and the wall. He noted that images were formed
only by means of small holes and that the candle to the right made an image to the left on the
wall. From his observations he deduced the linearity of light. (Hammond 1981:5).
In the following centuries the pinhole technique was used by optical scientists in various
experiments to study sunlight projected from a small aperture.
The Renaissance and Post-Renaissance
In the Renaissance and later centuries the pinhole was mainly used for scientific purposes in
astronomy and, fitted with a lens, as a drawing aid for artists and amateur painters.
Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) describes pinhole image formation in his Codex atlanticus. The
following translation, in German, is from Eder (1905:27): "Wenn die Fassade eines Geb�udes,
oder ein Platz, oder eine Landschaft von der Sonne beleuchtet wird and man bringt auf der
gegen�berliegenden Seite in der Wand einer nicht von der Sonne gotroffenen Wohnung ein
kleines L�chlein an, so werden alle erleuchteten Gegenst�nde ihr Bild durch diese �ffnung
senden und werden umgekehrt erscheinen".
In 1475 the Renaissance mathematician and astronomer Paolo Toscanelli placed a bronze ring
with an aperture in a window in the Cathedral of Florence, still in use today. On sunny days a
solar image is projected through the hole onto the cathedral's floor. At noon, the solar image
bisects a "noon-mark" on the floor. The image and noon-mark were used for telling time (Renner
1995:6).
In 1580 papal astronomers used a pinhole and a similar noon-mark in the Vatican Observatory
in Rome to prove to Pope Gregory XIII that the spring equinox fell incorrectly on 11 March
rather than on 21 March. Two years later, after careful consideration, Pope Gregory XIII
corrected the Julian calendar by 10 days, thus creating the Gregorian calendar (Renner 1995:7).
Giovanni Battista della Porta (1538-1615), a scientist from Naples, was long regarded as the
inventor of the camera obscura because of his description of the pinhole (lensless) camera
obscura in the first edition of his Magia naturalis (1558). His description has received much
publicity, as did his camera obscura shows, but he was by no means the inventor.
The first picture of a pinhole camera obscura is apparently a drawing in Gemma Frisius' De
Radio Astronomica et Geometrica (1545). Gemma Frisius, an astronomer, had used the pinhole in
his darkened room to study the solar eclipse of 1544. The very term camera obscura ("dark
room") was coined by Johannes Kepler (1571-1630). At his time, the term had come to mean a
room, tent or box with a lens aperture used by artists to draw a landscape. The lens made the
image brighter and focused at a certain distance. Thus this type of camera differed from the
pinhole camera obscura used by Frisius in 1544. In the 1620s Johannes Kepler invented a
portable camera obscura. Camera obscuras as drawing aids were soon found in many shapes
and sizes. They were used by both artists and amateur painters.
During the 19th century several large scale camera obscuras were built as places of education
and entertainment. The meniscus lens, superior to the bi-convex lens, improved the quality of the
the projected images. Several buildings or towers with camera obscuras remain today: The
Camera Obscura at Royal Mile, Edinburgh; the Great Union Camera at Douglas, Isle of Man; the
Clifton Observatory at Bristol, England; the camera obscura at Portmeirion, North Wales; the
Giant Camera at Cliff House, San Francisco; the camera obscura at Santa Monica, California,
and others. A few large scale camera obscuras have been built in the 20th century.
The First Pinhole Photographs
Sir David Brewster, a Scottish scientist, was one of the first to make pinhole photographs, in the
1850s. He also coined the very word "pinhole", or "pin-hole" with a hyphen, which he used in
his book The Stereoscope, published in 1856. Joseph Petzval used the term "natural camera" in
1859, whereas Dehors and Deslandres, in the late 1880s, proposed the term
"stenopaic photography". In French today "st�nop�" is used for the English "pinhole". In Italian a pinhole
camera is called "una fotocamera con foro stenopeico". In German "Lochkamera" and "Camera
obscura" are used. The Scandinavian languages tend to use the English "pinhole" as a model -
"hullkamera"/"holkamera"/"h�lkamera", though "camera obscura" is also found, and is the term
preferred by myself in Norwegian.
Sir William Crookes, John Spiller and William de Wiveleslie Abney, all in England, were
other early photographers to try the pinhole technique. The oldest extant pinhole photographs
were probably made by the English archeologist Flinders Petrie (1853-1942) during his
excavations in Egypt in the 1880s. Two of his photographs are reproduced in Renner
(1995:39,40). It should be noted that Petrie's camera had a simple lens in front of the pinhole.
Pictorialism and Popular Pinhole Photography
By the late 1880s the Impressionist movement in painting exherted a certain influence on
photography. Different schools or tendencies developed in photography. The "old school"
believed in sharp focus and good lenses; the "new school", the "pictorialists", tried to achieve
the atmospheric qualities of paintings. Some of the pictorialists experimented with pinhole
photography. In 1890, George Davison's pinhole photograph An Old Farmstead (later called The
Onion Field) won the first award at the Annual Exhibition of the Photographic Society of
London. The award was controversial and led to a schism in the Photographic Society of
London (soon to become the Royal Photographic Society) which resulted in the formation of the
well-known pictorialist group, the "Linked Ring". George Davison's picture is reproduced in
Renner (1995:42), and in some histories of photography, e.g. Michael Langford's The Story of
Photography (Oxford: Focal Press 1992. p. 106), The Magic Image. The Genius of Photography,
edited by Cecil Beaton and Gail Buckland (London: Pavilion Books Ltd. 1989. p. 79), and
Naomi Rosenblum's A World History of Photography (New York: Abbeville Press, p. 310).
In 1892 the Swedish dramatist August Strindberg started experimenting with pinhole
photography. About 100 of Strindberg's photographs are preserved, of these three or four are
pinhole images.
Pinhole photography became popular in the 1890s. Commercial pinhole cameras were sold in
Europe, the United States and in Japan. 4000 pinhole cameras ("Photomnibuses") were sold in
London alone in 1892. The cameras seem to have had the same status as disposable cameras
today - none of the "Photomnibuses" have been preserved for posterity in camera collections.
Some years earlier, an American company had actually invented a disposable pinhole camera,
the "Ready Photographer", consisting of a dry glass plate, a pinhole in tinfoil and a folding
bellows. Another American company sold "the Glen Pinhole Camera", which included six dry
plates, chemicals, trays, a print frame and ruby paper for a safelight. The very first commercial
pinhole camera was designed by Dehors and Deslandres in France in 1887. Their camera had a
rotating disc with six pinholes, three pairs of similar sizes. Pictures of these cameras are found
in Renner (1995:43).
Mass production of cameras and "new realism" in the 20th century soon left little space for
pinhole photography. By the 1930s the technique was hardly remembered, or only used in
teaching. Frederick Brehm, at what was later to become the Rochester Institute of Technology,
was possibly the first college professor to stress the educational value of the pinhole technique.
He also designed the Kodak Pinhole Camera around 1940.
The Revival of Pinhole Photography
In the mid-1960s several artists, unaware of each other, began experimenting with the pinhole
technique - Paolo Gioli in Italy, Gottfried J�ger in Germany, David Lebe, Franco
Salmoiraghi, Wiley Sanderson and Eric Renner in the USA. Coincidentally, many of these artists were
working with multiple pinholes. Wiley Sanderson was a professor of photography at the
University of Georgia and taught pinhole photography from 1953 to 1988. During that period his
students built 4356 pinhole cameras (Renner 1995:53).
Two scientists were also working with pinhole photography, Kenneth A. Connors in the USA
and Maurice Pirenne in Great Britain. Connors did research on pinhole definition and
resolution. His findings were printed in his self-published periodical Interest. Pirenne used the
pinhole to study perspective in his book Optics, Paiting and Photography (1970).
In 1971 The Time-Life Books published The Art of Photography in the well-known Life Library
of Photography and included one of Eric Renner's panoramic pinhole images. The June 1975
issue of Popular Photography published the article "Pinholes for the People", based on Phil
Simkin's month-long project with 15,000 hand-assembled and preloaded pinhole cameras in the
Philadelphia Museum of Art. (People came into the museum, picked up a camera, made an
exposure. The images, developed in a public darkroom in the museum, were continnually
displayed in the museum.)
In the 1970s pinhole photography gained increasing popularity. Multiple pinholes became rare.
Many pinhole photographers experimented with alternative processes. A number of articles and
some books were published, among them Jim Shull's The Hole Thing: A Manual of Pinhole
Photography. Stan Page of Utah, a leading historian of pinhole photography, collected 450
articles on pinhole photography published after 1850. In the USA, however, critics tended to
ignore pinhole photography in art, whereas Paolo Gioli and Dominique Stroobant received
more attention in Europe. In Japan Nobuo Yamanaki started making pinhole camera obscuras in
the early 1970s. Although pinhole photography gained popularity, few of the artists knew of the
others' images. A diversity of approaches and cameras developed.
In 1985 Lauren Smith published The Visionary Pinhole, the first broad documentation of the
diversity of pinhole photography. The first national exhibition of pinhole photography in the
USA was organised by Willie Anne Wright, at the The Institute of Contemporary Art of the
Virginia Museum in 1982. In 1988 the first international exhibition, "Through a Pinhole Darkly",
was organised by the Fine Arts Museum of Long Island. Cameras and images from forty-five
artists were exhibited. A second international exhibition was organised in Spain the same year,
at The Museum of Contemporary Art of Seville, comprising the work of nine photographers. A
third international exhibition followed at the Center for Contemporary Arts of Santa Fe in New
Mexico, also in 1988. According to Renner (1995:94), James Hugunin's essay "Notes Toward a
Stenopaesthetic", in the catalogue of the Santa Fe exhibition, represents the most thorough
analysis of pinhole photography in the 1980s. Eric Renner's book Pinhole Photography -
Rediscovering a Historic Technique, published in 1995, mentions a large number of pinhole
artists active in the 1980s and gives samples of their work. References to some contemporary
German pinhole artists who are not included in Renner's book, are found in the list of literature
below. A contemporary Norwegian photographer who has experimented with pinhole
photography is Morten Haug.
According to Renner (1995:90) at least six commercial pinhole cameras were manufactured in
the 1980s.
The Pinhole Resource, an international information center and archive for pinhole photography,
was founded by Eric Renner in 1984. The first issue of the Pinhole Journal appeared in
December 1975. The archives contain more than 2000 images. The journal has published work
by over 200 pinhole artists from a number of countries.
With the advent of the World Wide Web pinhole photography went online. One of the first
artists to publish his work on the Internet was Harlan Wallach. By January 1995 Richard Vallon
of Louisiana had established the Pinhole Resource on the net. Only two years ago little pinhole
information and few images were available on the net. Today a search on the Alta Vista server
will return a large number of URLs.
Pinhole Photography in Science
In the late Middle Ages the pinhole was used to study the projection of light through a small
aperture. In the 16th century and later it was used in astronomy to study solar eclipses. In the
1940s pinhole cameras found their way into nuclear physics. It was discovered that pinhole
cameras could be used to photograph high-energy X-rays and gamma rays. Pinhole cameras
were deployed in space craft by the end of the 1950s and beginning of the 60s to photograph
X-rays and gamma rays from the sun. The first soft X-ray pinhole of the sun was made on 19
April 1960. The photograph is reproduced in Renner (1995:18). In the 1970s scatter-hole X-ray
pinhole cameras were made. Today's pinhole cameras on space vehicles use multiple pinhole
optics. The last 20 years the pinhole has also been used widely by nuclear physicists to
photograph high energy in laser plasma (Renner 1995:21).
Cameras
Basically a pinhole camera is a light-tight box with a tiny hole in one end and film or
photographic paper in the other.
A few commercial cameras are available - e.g. the 4 x 5 Rigby camera, the 4 x 5 and 8 x 10
Santa Barbara cameras, the 4 x 5 and 8 x 10 Leonardo Cameras, and the Mottweiler 120
camera. There is at least one cardboard kit on the market - The John Adams Pinhole kit. Most
pinhole photographers, however, make their cameras themselves. The construction is simple.
Commercial cameras in hardwood or metal tend to be expensive - some are very expensive -
and they do not produce better images than a homebrew camera.
Pinhole cameras may differ with regard to (a) focal length, (b) pinhole diameter, (c) number of
pinholes, (d) image format, (e) flat or curved film plane, (f) type of light-sensitive material, and
(g) other characteristics.
(a) Strictly speaking pinhole cameras have no focal length. They have infinite depth of field. But
for practical reasons the term "focal length" is used here to refer to the distance between the
pinhole and the film or paper. Pinhole cameras may have short, normal or long "focal lengths";
they may be anything from ultra wide-angle cameras to long telephoto cameras. It should be
noted that as the focal length increases, the apertures decreases. In other words, exposure times
get longer (see Formulas below). (The formula for calculating the f-stop is f = v/d, where f =
aperture, v = distance from pinhole to film or paper, and d = pinhole diameter) Pinhole cameras
produce fascinating wide-angle and ultra-wide angle images. Unlike lens photographs, ultra
wide-angle images remain rectilinear. Straight lines are not curved at the periphery of the
image. Beginners should start by making a wide-angle camera.
(b) For any focal length there is an optimal pinhole diameter for image sharpness. A number of
formulas and charts have been produced. Generally a smaller pinhole will produce a sharper
image than a larger one. If the pinhole gets too small, the image becomes less sharp because of
diffraction. See Formulas below.
(c) Pinhole cameras may have one pinhole or several. Multiple pinhole cameras produce
overlapping images or, with certain designs, panoramic images. Beautiful images made with a
multiple pinhole camera are found in Knuchel (1991: cover, p. 35). The beginner should start
with a camera with a single pinhole. My own experience is from single pinhole photography
exclusively. Some advanced pinhole photographers sometimes use a slit instead of a pinhole.
For a beautiful picture made with a single slit camera, see Knuchel (1991:53).
(d) Pinhole cameras have widely differing image formats. Cameras are made from match boxes,
35 mm film canisters, baking soda containers, oatmeal boxes, cookie tins, bags or suitcases, big
wooden cases etc. Vans or station wagons have been used as pinhole cameras, and rooms in
large buildings.
Some cameras are made to take a 126 film cartridge. There are pinhole photographers who use
35 mm film (e.g. by removing the lens of a 35 mm SRL, taping or gluing a pinhole plate to a
lenscap, and replacing the lens with the modified lenscap). A cheap 120 twin-lens reflex camera
(e.g. a Russian-made Lubitel), an old 120 (non-collectible!) folding camera, a 120 box or a
Polaroid camera may fairly easily be turned into a pinhole camera. Some pinhole photographers
use a large format camera, 4 x 5 in., 5 x 7 in. or 8 x 10 in., and replace the ordinary lensboard
with a lensboard with a pinhole plate. Some make a lensboard with a pinhole turret, i.e. a disc
with a circular configuration of pinholes in various sizes.
Most pinhole cameras, however, are made from an ordinary box or container, with a pinhole
plate in one end and a simple mechanism for holding the paper or film in the other. Often the
film or paper is just taped to the inside of the box. Many pinhole photographers start out with an
"oatmeal box camera", a camera made from a cylindrical container in cardboard or metal.
In my view, best results are achieved with medium or large format film or with photographic
paper in similar sizes or larger. In many areas 120 roll film is more easily available than sheet
film.
(e) A pinhole camera may have a flat or curved film or image plane. If the film plane is flat, there
will be some light fall-off or vignetting at the corners in a wide-angle or ultra wide-angle
pinhole camera, especially with large film formats. The image may be overexposed at the center
and underexposed at the corners. This vignetting, however, may be exploited consciously as an
esthetic effect. If one wants to avoid the light fall-off, the film plane should be curved so that the
film at any point is roughly at the same distance from the pinhole. A pinhole camera may be
made from a round ("cookie") container cut in two to form a semi-circular box. Film or paper is
taped to the circular wall of the box. Many pinhole photographers also make "oatmeal" box
cameras with curved film planes. In my own pinhole photography I use flat film planes.
With flat film planes a pinhole has a usable circular image of approx. 125 degrees. The imagediameter is
abou t 31/2 times of any focal length. The image will fade towards the edges because of the increasing focal distance.
With curved film planes a pinhole camera may have a circle of coverage of almost 180 degrees
if the pinhole is made in very thin material.
Some photographers experiment with complex film planes. Examples are found in Knuchel
1991, which is an interesting source for studying the relationship between image and camera,
and also one of the most interesting European portfolios I am aware of. The book has parallel
text in German and English.
(f) Pinhole cameras may take film or photographic paper. Black and white film and color film
for prints have more exposure latitude than chrome film. XP-2 for black and white (available in
35 mm, 120 format and 4 x 5 in.) has extraordinarily wide exposure latitude and may be
exposed as anything between ISO 50 and 800. The latitude makes it ideal for pinhole
photography. Photographic paper for black and white has a low ISO rating. In my own pinhole
photography I have used mainly Fujichrome 50 and Fujichrome Velvia, XP-2 and Ilford
Multigrade III RC. Some photographers recommend mat-surfaced RC paper for curved image
planes (paper curved in an "oatmeal box camera") to avoid a reflected fogged strip. Glossy
paper may be used in cameras with flat image planes, where light will not be reflected. Some
photographers use Ilfochrome paper with great success. An 85B filter (sometimes in
combination with an 81 or 82 series filter) may be used to change tungsten light to daylight.
Because of long exposures reciprocity failure will often have to be taken into account when
calcuating exposure both for film and paper.
(g) Pinhole cameras may also differ with regard to other characteristics.
Cameras are made from different types of material: cardboard, wood, metal or other. For the
beginner a camera made of cardboard may be the best choice. Cardboard is easy to work with.
Some photographers use a grey filter (neutral density filter) to increase exposure times when
using film where exposure times are short. Filters may also be used to control contrast in
multigrade papers, or to control color when using color film or Ilfochrome paper.
Many homebrew cameras have only a plastic flap or a piece of cardboard for "shutter". This is
my own choice for most of my cameras. Hardwood cameras may have a simple moveable
shutter. With short exposure times it is important that the shutter open easily without vibrations.
Some photographers make a viewing frame, e.g. by cutting a window the same size as the pinhole
image in a piece of cardboard. A wire frame attached to the camera is another solution. The
viewing frame is held at the same distance from the eye as the distance between the pinhole and
the film in the camera. Pinhole photographers who use a large format camera sometimes use a
larger viewing pinhole when composing the image. In my own pinhole photography I never use
viewing frames. I tend to work for longer periods with the same camera and find I get a pretty
good feeling of the image field.
Some pinhole cameras are beautiful objects in themselves. The Swiss pinhole photographers
Peter Olpe makes cameras from cardboard in the shape if small castles and buildings
(Olpe 1992). The cameras are themselves objects of art and have been exhibited as such.
I suggest the beginner starts by making an "oatmeal box camera" or a cardboard camera.
Making a Pinhole Camera
The Pinhole
The most important part of a pinhole camera is the pinhole itself. Precision made pinholes in
brass shim may be bought, e.g. from the Pinhole Resource. Precision made pinholes in silver
foil are avilable from [email protected]. You will find a list of sources for pinhole sheets
here. But for most purposes there is no reason why you should not make the pinhole yourself.
The hole is made in a thin piece of metal, brass shim (available in some car supply stores) or
metal from the lid of small box or glass container (bought at a supermarket ). Some use
aluminium foil from a disposable baking pan. Ordinary aluminium foil is too thin. My own
experience is with brass shim and thin metal from container lids.
If the metal is taken from a container lid, it should be sanded carefully with ultra-fine emery
paper (e.g. # 600) to remove any paint or varnish and to make it thinner. The hole is made with a
needle. The edge of the hole should be sharp. The optimal diameter depends on the focal length
of the camera, i.e. the distance from the pinhole to the film or photographic paper. Some
formulas and charts are reproduced below. In general: the smaller the hole, the sharper the
image. If the hole is too small, however, the image get less sharp because of diffraction effects
(light is bent around the edge of the pinhole).
Place the piece of metal on top of some hard cardboard. Carefully poke a hole with a needle
taking care that the hole is as round as possible. The needle may be put through a cork to make it
easier to handle. Or you may put masking tape on the head of the needle. Hold the needle
steadily in a 90 degree angle to the surface. Turn the piece of metal and sand the back side
carefully with fine-grained emery paper to remove the burr or debris where the needle point has
penetrated. (The edges of the pinhole should be sharp). Then place the metal on the cardboard
back side up and cautiously spin the needle in the hole to make sure the hole is round. The hole
can be checked with a magnifier or an enlarger. You can also use an enlarger or slide projector
to check the diameter of the pinhole.
Gord Holtslander's instructions in a file compiled by Bruce Barrett (#9).
Can Cameras
Pinhole cameras can be made of many kinds of light-tight containers. A cylindrical cardboard
container, e.g. an oatmeal box or a herb tea container, is easily converted into a pinhole camera
for pieces of 120 roll film or photographic paper.
1.Start by making a cardboard film holder. The film holder is made of two pieces of cardboard which fit the internal dimensions of the cylindrical box (Sketch). One piece (A) serves as the back of the film holder. The other piece is cut in two, one small piece (B) which is glued to A and a larger piece (C) with a cut-out window (D) for the film or paper. Use some good tape (electrical tape or other) to attach piece C to B. The film holder will be loaded in a darkroom by placing a piece of 120 roll film or photographic paper between A and C.
2.The film holder fits into a groove on either side of the box. The groove is made by gluing cardboard strips to the insides of the box (Sketch). You may make a supporting back (E) for the film holder by gluing a piece of cardboard in the groove. This will make it easier to
slide the loaded filmholder into the groove.
3.Spray the insides of the box (including the lid), and the outsides of the cardboard film holder, with flat black spray paint. Make sure the lid is not translucent. If necessary glue some black plastic lining or cardboard to the lid to make it opaque.
4.Make a hole in the front of the box. The "optical axis" should extend to the center of the window in the film holder - provided you are not looking for special off-center effects.
5.Then make the pinhole plate. See above.
6.Tape the pinhole plate to the front of the cylindrical box.
7.Make a simple shutter by taping a flap of black plastic over the pinhole, e.g. plastic from a photographic paper package. The flap may be held in place by a rubber string. When you take a picture you remove the string, open the flap for the necessary exposure and close it.
8.If you want a tripod bush or socket for your camera, use some araldite to glue a 1/4" or 3/8" nut to the bottom of the box.
9.Since this camera has to be loaded in the darkroom, it will be practical to make several cameras. The cameras are easily carried in a bag.
10.If you want a curved film plane for your camera, the cardboard film holder is left out. Film or paper is taped to the inside of the camera.
A polaroid picture of some "oatmeal box" pinhole cameras which I made in 1990, my first
pinhole cameras, and a portrait made with one of the cameras on Ilford Multigrade III RC paper.
The negative was scanned and then reversed by a photo editing program on my computer.
Some descriptions or pictures of "oatmeal box" or "cookie tin" cameras on the net:
Wendy Mukluk's description of an oatmeal camera. Summary of Justin Quinell's description of a coke can camera (#6).
4 x5 in. Film Holder Cameras
Some commercial cameras are manufactured for 4 x 5 in. or 8 x 10 in. sheet film. In my view,
these cameras tend to be somewhat overpriced.
Making a camera yourself is easy. The camera can be made of wood or cardboard. I build my
own cameras from hardwood, mainly because I like woodworking and enjoy making beautiful
objects in wood. Plywood or other materials may be used as well and require less effort.
Cardboard is probably the easiest material to work with.
A cardboard camera may be made from scratch from sheets of cardboard cut to the right
dimensions and assembled to form a box which will take a 4 x 5 in. film holder. It may also be
made from an already existing cardboard box. The basic component - apart from the pinhole
plate - is the film holder. The back of the camera is designed to accommodate a standard film
holder. The inserted film holder may be held in place by a rubber string. Make sure the camera
back is light-tight. Near the top the film holder has a locating ridge which is to fit in a groove in
the camera back. The groove may be made by gluing strips of cardboard to the back. Some
simple sketches of a 4 x 5 inch film holder camera made of cardboard:
Sketch a - Side view
Sketch b - End view
Sketch c - Front view
Sketch d - Top view of camera with back flap
I usually use 6 x 30 mm oak strip (1/4" x 1 1/4") as the basic material for wooden camerasfor 4 x
5 in. film holders. The strips are glued together to form 6 mm sheets. The sheets are sanded
carefully, cut to the right measurements and glued together to form a box with a simple spring
back for the film holder. The following is a general description of the construction of a wooden
4 x 5 in. camera.
1.Get a 4 x 5 in. film holder.
2.Make a box of wood (Sketch 1). The internal width should be about 20 mm wider than the film holder. The bottom piece (A) and the side pieces (B) should be about 40 mm longer than the top piece (C). Sand the wood carefully before assembling the pieces.
3.Square moulding is glued to the internal angles in the camera to make the construction stronger. Sketch x.
4.The back panel (D) is made of plywood. A window (E) is cut in the back panel, the same size as the film holder's window (dimensions ...).
5.A groove (F) is made in the back piece for the film holder's locating ridge.
6.Two strips of wood (G), approximately 6 mm thick, are glued to the back panel, one on the the left side, the other on the right side of the film holder.
7.Two leaf springs (H) are made of a flexible sink drain (available at a reasonable price in some hadrware stores).
8.Each leaf spring is kept in place by a small piece of wood (I) screwed on to the side pieces.
9.A hole (J) is made for the pinhole in the front panel.
10.The pinhole plate (P) is attached to the inside of the front panel. A piece of wood (K) with a hole covers the pinhole plate; the piece of wood is screwed on to the front piece from the inside.
11.A pressure panel (L) for the film holder is made of wood.
12.Two strips of 1 1/2 or 2 mm brass strip (M), to go under the leaf springs, are screwed on to the pressure panel.
13.A handle (N) may be attached to the side panel of the camera.
A piece of cardboard is used for shutter, or a moveable shutter is added (O). For short
exposures a cardboard is most practical as removing the cardboard creates no vibrations.
The same design may be used for a 5 x 7 in. camera or an 8 x 10 in. camera. For an 8 x 10 in.
camera 8 - 10 mm board or plywood may be used as the basic material.
Sketches:
Sketch 1 - Three dimensional view
Sketch 2 - Side view
Sketch 3 - End view (pressure panel removed)
Sketch 4 - Pressure panel
Sketch 5 - Top view (with pressure panel)
Sketch 6 - Top view (pressure panel removed)
Sketch 7 - Moveable shutter
Polaroid pictures of some of my hardwood cameras for sheet film holders:
A 4 x 5 in. pinhole camera
A 5 x 7 in. pinhole camera
An 8 x 10 in. pinhole camera
A 4 x 5 in. camera in its case
A 5 x 7 in. camera and its case
Box Cameras for Photographic Paper
A box camera for photographic paper can be made of a light-tight cardboard box, from sheets of
cardboard or from wood. Peter Olpe (1993) has plans for a nicely constructed cardboard
camera.
I usually use wood for box cameras for photographic paper. Most of my cameras are constructed
for the format 18 x 24 cm (approx. 8 x 10 in.). The focal lengths differ but all are wide-angle
cameras. My preferred 18 x 24 cm camera has a focal length of 87 mm. Some of my "Oslo
pinhole photographs" were made with this camera.
Although it is easy to make a simple moveable shutter for these cameras most of the cameras
have just piece of cardboard which is taped to the camera and opened or removed during
exposure. For some of my box cameras I have made a reducing back for 4 x 5 in. sheet film.
A sketch of a wooden box camera for paper 18 x 24 cm. Polaroid pictures of some of my
cameras:
An 87 mm 8 x 10 in. camera
8 x 10 in. camera with 4 x 5 film holder
Ultra wide-angle camera
Ultra wide-angle camera with 4 x 5 film holder
Collapsable 20 x 24 in. camera
Folded up collapsable 20 x 24 in. camera
Camera for 120 Roll Film
Cameras for photographic paper have to be loaded in the dark or under a safelight. They usually
take only one sheet of paper at a time. This somewhat laborious process makes photography
slow. The slowness may be an advantage - the photographer tends to plan his images carefully.
But if you want to take more than one picture you will have to bring several cameras. Sheet film
cameras and cameras for 120 roll film are practical for photographic tours.
Some pinhole photographers modify an existing 120 roll film camera by removing the lens and
replacing it with a pinhole plate. Others make their own cameras. Peter Olpe (1993) has plans
for a cardboard camera for 120 roll film. The text is in German.
In 1991 I constructed a 120 roll film camera made of hardwood. I used oak bought at a local
lumber yard. The camera has a flat film plane. The negative format is approximately 60 x 70
mm, and the focal length 45 mm. I usually use the camera for XP-2 black and white film or
Fujichrome Velvia. Many of my "Oslo pinhole photographs" were made with this camera, as
were my "New Pinhole Photographs 1997-98".
A basic sketch of the camera. A polaroid photograph of my 120 roll film camera and of the
camera opened.
A 126 Catridge Camera
A pinhole camera may be made of a 126 film cassette and some cardboard. Descriptions and
plans are found in Olpe (1993:16, 28-29).
The Exploratorium's description of a 126 cassette camera
Formulas
According to Eric Renner at least 50 charts suggesting optimal pinhole diameters have been
devised in the last 125 years (Renner 1995:118). In my own reading the last six years I have
come across about fifteen charts or formulas, a few of which may be derived from the same
basic formulas. It should be noted that the diameter of the pinhole is not really critical. But for
every focal length there is an "optimal" diameter, i.e. a diameter which produces the sharpest
possible image. The word optimal actually is not a felicitous term, since the pinhole
photographer or artist may not be striving for the greatest possible sharpness. There are
beautiful pinhole images which are intentionally softer than what is technically possible. A good
pinhole image is something else than a blurred, out of focus, lens image.
Up to a certain point a small pinhole will produce a sharper image than a larger one. If the
pinhole is too small, the image gets less sharp because of diffraction. The hole should be
perfectly round, without ragged edges. It may be checked with a magnifier or an enlarger.
Joseph Petzval of Vienna apparently was the first, in 1857, to attempt to find a mathematical
formula of the optimal pinhole diameter for the sharpest definition in a pinhole image. The
British Nobel Prize winner Lord Rayleigh (John William Strutt, 1842-1919) worked on pinhole
diameter formulas for ten years and published his work in Nature (1891). Lord Rayleigh's
formula is still one of the formulas used to today. A number of others have been published since
the 1880s.
Lord Rayleigh's formula for subject distances above 1 meter may be written as follows:
d = 1.9 * sqrt (l * f),
where d = pinhole diameter, l = wavelength of light and f = focal length or distance from
pinhole to light-sensitive material.
For the wavelength of light different average values may be substituted. Often the value of the
yellow-green spectrum is used, i.e. 0.00055 mm.
According to Renner (1995: 117) most formulas used today are of the following general form:
r = sqrt (l * c * f)
r = pinhole radius
l = wavelength of light
c = a constant, usually a decimal fraction between 0.5 and 1
f = focal length
Platt (1989:73) provides the following optimal pinhole formula:
d x d = f/k, where k is a constant of approx. 1300
Dobson (1991) provides this formula:
d = sqrt (f)/25
Lord Rayleigh's formula and those published by Platt and Dobson all give somewhat different
results. Andrew Davidhazy of the Rochester Institute of Technology lists several other formulas
in a posting on the net.
Four, slightly different, charts of optimal pinhole diameters are reproduced below. Some of the
charts have been simplified by leaving out references to needle numbers. Holter's chart,
published in Norwegian, has been translated by me. Platt's chart differs from the others by
consistently giving smaller apertures.
Bogre (1988)
Focal length
Best aperture diameter
Equivalent f-stop
Exposure factor for f/22
50 Mm
0.29 mm
f/174
63 x
75 mm
0.35 mm
f/213
94 x
100 mm
0.41 mm
f/246
125 x
125 mm
0.45 mm
f/275
157 x
150 mm
0.50 mm
f/203
188 x
200 mm
0.57 mm
f/348
250 x
250 mm
0.64 mm
f/389
313 x
300 mm
0.70 mm
f/426
376 x
Platt (1989)
Focal length (mm)
Pinhole diameter (mm)
f-stop
130
0.33
380
210
0.40
500
260
0.46
550
320
0.50
650
420
0.58
690
550
0.66
800
650
0.74
930
750
0.79
960
1000
0.91
1120
Holter (1990)
Focal length (mm)
Pinhole diameter (mm)
f-stop
Exposure factor for f/16
10
0.14
70
20
20
0.20
100
40
30
0.24
125
60
40
0.28
140
80
50
0.31
160
100
60
0.34
180
125
70
0.37
190
140
80
0.40
200
160
90
0.42
214
180
100
0.45
220
190
150
0.54
280
300
200
0.63
318
400
250
0.70
360
500
300
0.78
380
560
350
0.84
418
700
400
0.89
450
800
Fuller (1992)
Focal length (mm)
Pinhole diameter (mm)
Approx. f-stop
50
0.26
200
75
0.32
220
100
0.45
240
150
0.55
270
200
0.63
320
250
0.71
350
300
0.77
390
350
0.83
420
400
0.89
450
500
1.00
500
It should be borne in mind that for most purposes the diameter is not really critical, as the
different values in the charts above may demonstrate.
Larry Fratkin's Online Pinhole Calculators
Postscript
Photographers photograph in varying degree for (a) the experience or for (b) the images. When
you photograph for the experience, the emphasis is on the process itself - the pleasure of the
making a pinhole camera, the pleasure of planning pictures, and the pleasure of making pictures
with a simple device. When you photograph for the images, the emphasis is mainly on the result.
The pinhole camera is basically an imaging device with potentials which other cameras or
techniques do not possess, e.g. softness of definition, infinite depth of field, rectilinearity.
In photography certain subjects may be better suited for a particular technique than others.
Photojournalists, for example, normally use 35 mm SLRs in their work. Portrait photographers
often use medium format cameras. Architecture is best rendered by large format cameras. Also
in pinhole photography some subjects are better suited than others. Long exposures exclude
certain subjects, softness of definition exclude others. Infinite depth of field and rectilinear ultra
wide-angle images represent a special potential.
Beginners should start with subjects with clear graphic shapes or bright colors in sunlight.
Cityscapes tend to make better pictures than rural landscapes with their soft lines and softer
shades of color or grey tones - at least for the beginning pinhole photographer. Portraits may
prove slightly more difficult than still lifes, objects, structures, buildings and cityscapes.
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by Jon Grepstad
Artspace II Photography
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